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How To Keep A 1965 Shelby Cobra Engine Running Cooler

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#1 (permalink)

Old 07-xvi-2008, x:52 AM

Automan Automan is offline

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Default 427 engine Temperature.


OK, so again, i have a 427 centeroiler with solid lifters, 2-650cfm carbs. currently it has 370miles on it. I have a 160 degree thermostat. I have an aluminum rad ( same every bit Rosco)

What i am finding is that the engine temperature takes merely a couple of blocks to get to 170 degrees. I have my fans running correct from startup because they are manually controled. At present i merely have two electrical fans from finsihline on the forepart of the rad pushing air through. at that place is about 1.v inches of infinite between the rad and fans.

And so afterward about two miles i am at 190 degrees. Now going downwardly the highway at 65 miles i stay at 190 degrees. But in a stop and become situation i am climbing to 230 degrees. Now i take never allowed information technology to go over that because i either caput dorsum to the nearest highway or stretch run or terminate at the nearest
Tim Hortons for a coffee and wait for it to cool down. Concluding nighttime afterwards a x mile run i pulled into the garage at 230 degrees. Fifty-fifty the hood rod is hot when setting it in place. I left my fans on when i shut off the auto and cooled down the water in the rad. I would showtime it up and bring down the temperature allowing the cooled water in the rad to enter the engine and supercede the rad with hot water then shutting it off again. Kept doing it untill i got it back to 180. Took three rad fills.

I know this isn't right. Heed you lot it has been loftier ninties here in Ontario lately.

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#two (permalink)

Old 07-sixteen-2008, 11:01 AM

Lyndon Harrison Lyndon Harrison is offline

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Are your fans turning in the correct direction?

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#3 (permalink)

Old 07-sixteen-2008, 11:11 AM

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I practise experience the breeze on the otherside of the rad (engine compartment).

Automan

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#4 (permalink)

Old 07-16-2008, eleven:thirteen AM

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Hullo Automan,

The 427 likes to run improve when it hot 190 degrees is where it is happy, above that and information technology is way as well hot.

As mentioned in a higher place look to what direction your fans are bravado but, I would recommend a pusher and puller fan combination. I looked in your gallery but, could not see what pusher fans y'all are using. If yous are using the two small Aluminum units they are more decoration not real cooling functionality. I would await to mount a high efficiency puller behind the radiator i.eastward. Spal etc. that would pull the air through and requite you the cooling needed when you are running slow in traffic.

Promise that helps,

TR

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Old 07-16-2008, 11:16 AM

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Change the thermostat to a 190 . A 160 is open also soon ...yous might every bit well not have thermostat. John

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Old 07-xvi-2008, xi:52 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by CHANMADD View Post

Change the thermostat to a 190 . A 160 is open also soon ...you might as well not have thermostat. John

Perhaps a silly question from a non professional, but wouldn't a 160 T/stat go along the watertemp libation than a 190? It appears that the coolant would start flowing through the Radiator sooner, therefore lower operating temp?
cheers

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Old 07-sixteen-2008, xi:58 AM

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The 160 opens at 160 and stays open. The purpose of the thermostat is to allow the coolant to sit in the radiator long enough to cool and and then the thermo re-opens and lets the cooled coolant into the engine. When yous take no thermo or a low open temp 1 the coolant flows all the time. information technology flows through the radiator so chop-chop that information technology does not absurd downward and returns to the engine still hot. Removing the thermostat is one of the most common "stupid" things to do. John

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Old 07-16-2008, eleven:59 AM

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Hmmmm

Just looked in your gallery again and you are using the same units I have on my Shelby and had on my Unique, both with 427's. The thermostat should be 160 to allow the engine to come up to temp and then let coolant to come in to bring the whole arrangement upward to 85 degrees C/185 degrees F range and go along it at that place. Except for spikes up when you lot go from hard running to a quick end in traffic it should range like this Nautical chart:

Degee C Caste F

75 167
76 168.eight
77 170.6
78 172.4
79 174.2
80 176
81 177.eight
82 179.6
83 181.four
84 183.2
85 185.0
86 186.8
87 188.6
88 190.four
89 192.2
xc 194.0
91 195.8
92 197.6
93 199.4
94 201.2
95 203.0

The differences are for ambient temperature ranges, if it is 65 degrees out the engine will run cooler than if it is 90 degrees out our cars like us feel the temperature of the air nosotros are running in.

Once you turn on the fans it should come dorsum downwards to the 85-90 Degree C range, if it does not, as you have indicated, more airflow at lower speeds is needed. I included Centigrade and Fahreheit temps since I did not know what gauges y'all are using.

I know my engine is running correct when both the water and oil temps both read eighty-85 C. that is when the 160 caste thermostat is open all the time and things are working as designed.

I mans stance,

TR


Last edited by Tony Ripepi; 07-sixteen-2008 at 12:16 PM..

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Old 07-16-2008, 12:08 PM

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If your cooling system is correct there should be no "spikes at all. The arrangement should just stay at the correct temp. I run a 190 thermo,two puller fans and 580 hp 406 cu and have never had whatsoever overheating bug even on the track.
The thermo is not designed to exist open up all the time...Sorry T.R. ,if it was at that place would not be one!!

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#10 (permalink)

Old 07-16-2008, 12:45 PM

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Don't forget a properly sealed SHROUD around that puller fan. Helps to direct and focus the puller fan'due south action.

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#11 (permalink)

Old 07-16-2008, 04:41 PM

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Trapped air in the system ??

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#12 (permalink)

Old 07-16-2008, 05:57 PM

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My pusher fans dont do much except look good but when I turn on the puller information technology starts to absurd my 427. You demand a proficient puller fan.

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#13 (permalink)

Old 07-xvi-2008, 06:56 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by FatBoy View Post

Trapped air in the system ??

Yup.
Had the same situation on a newly congenital engine, temps spiking, keeping the revs upwards to continue the temp. down, and a decent temp on the highway.
I constitute it was an air pocket which creates the radical temp ranges due to irregular or segmented flow. Try purging your organization again.

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Old 07-16-2008, 07:08 PM

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Running cool on the highway and hot around town is a good indication of a fan event. Those pusher fans are for testify and cutting up bugs. Get a good puller fan behind the radiator.

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#15 (permalink)

Old 07-16-2008, 08:05 PM

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You accept something going on other than an a 160 t-stat. Most probable air in the system. Drill an one/eight" hole in the flange of a 190 degree t-stat, This will allow some coolant to flow before the t-stat fully opens.

As was stated, FE'south like to run around 190-200. I had a 160 on mine and it ran like $striking! Look into a SPAL slim line puller placed behind the radiator for really hot days and traffic.

Good luck.

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#16 (permalink)

Old 07-sixteen-2008, 08:07 PM

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Tony R. is correct on the money equally far equally 'spikes' become. When your running a 160 T-Stat, which I also would recommend the 'spikes' Volition be dependant on ambient temps AND oil temps. I can live with some spikes based on ambient, I Want the T-Stat to open early on and stay open, which is exactly what a 160 volition do. The 427's are not like a typical modern engine where you put in a 180-190 Stat and the temp 'stays right there' under all atmospheric condition. Aint gonna happen, it's Non a perfect world and never will exist with a 427.

Hood rod to hot? Thats exhaust/header heat your feeling, nothing to do with engine water temp. I tin can burn my hand on mine most whatsoever hot or cold mean solar day.

Loftier engine temps are not e'er about needing more air menses. I can be cruising along at freeway speed and on a HOT day the temp WILL start to climb toward a 100c IF the oil temp also starts has gone up. Engine oil is a large factor in engine temp direction, the more the ameliorate if your running hot. A oil cooler will assistance to maintain engine temps nether extreme conditions, though it's only one part of the large picture.

How do you KNOW your heat gauge is accurate? Mine reads high by near 5 degrees, near all of them will vary some.

I employ a 'catch can' for radiator overflow so water that IS pushed out of the system is returned to the system when the engine cools. Other wise eventually, y'all volition have to add h2o to the radiator.

Heres the test I would run earlier buying more fans. Run information technology at highway speed which volition certainly provide as much air as any combination of fans volition. If it stays inside reason, then mayhap, more than fan's are chosen for in town and irksome speed, merely don't expect that to be the final solution by itself.

Heat direction on a 427, tricky stuff, not an easy reply. Mine consistently runs correct at xc C, a picayune higher in traffic. I DON'T exercise parades, ever. In Hawaii we rarely accept a big swing in temps, it'due south pretty much in the 80's year round. Expressionless of winter, nighttime of night, higher elevation, it has been known to drop into the mid 50's though. Brrrrrrrrrr.....


Last edited past Excaliber; 07-xvi-2008 at 08:12 PM..

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#17 (permalink)

Old 07-xvi-2008, 09:51 PM

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need to make sure coolant organisation is burpped. there tin be no air in your organization

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#18 (permalink)

Old 07-16-2008, 10:02 PM

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my car was also running hot mostly at slow speeds or at a light, backed off timing from 34 to 32 @ 4000 and set the idle/air needles a little fatter. no more problem. making it richer fabricated a big deviation

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Old 07-xvi-2008, 10:05 PM

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Proficient indicate native1, fuel mixture and timing, can't exist over looked! Water wetter/water is also better than antifreeze/water mix or water alone.

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Old 07-sixteen-2008, ten:xv PM

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  • Cheque to encounter if you lot have a sticky thermostat 1st. Could be hanging. I put mine in a pot of water on the stove. Watch it open and close a few times; encounter if it sticks or opens and closes smoothly through each heat/cold test bike.
  • Drain out all of the anti-freeze. Get it out of there in the summer time.
  • Raise the front end end, burp the system / expansion tank or at intake.
  • Fill support with pure water, while its UP in the air - front end upwards, remove cap on expansion tank.
  • Endeavour it once more, and encounter if anything changes.

    Dump out the hose h2o right after, and go get some distilled h2o and make full it up or just go some to brainstorm with 1st try.

Next step,

  • Add together h2o wetter.
  • Become a really adept puller fan, equally other's have suggested. Pushers are for looks.
  • Proceed an centre on how many miles you lot have on it; still in intermission-in menstruum.
  • Try it again, and see if annihilation changes.

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Last edited by decooney; 07-16-2008 at x:21 PM..

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